Previously on Part 1: We traced the cowboy boot's ancestry across centuries and continents—from ancient cave art and Persian cavalry to Mongol warriors and Louis XIV’s red heels. By the end of the 18th century, Hessian and Wellington boots had laid the groundwork for something new: a practical, durable, uniquely American boot built for the saddle.
Part 2: Humble Bootginnings in American Culture
By the mid-1800s, boots were no longer just symbols of status or battle gear—they were cowboy tools.
Calvary Boots Take Over
The cavalry boot was the go-to for cowboys up to 1870. With a tall shaft, square toe, and short flat heel, it merged elements of the Hessian and Wellington styles. These boots were worn by both Union and Confederate soldiers during the Civil War and became everyday cowboy wear afterward.
Meet John Cubine: Coffeyville Boot Pioneer
In 1870, John Cubine of Coffeyville, Kansas, introduced a new boot style that married Wellington and military boot elements. It featured a low Cuban heel, a slightly rounded square toe, and—fun fact—no left or right. That innovation (or omission) defined early American practicality.
The Vaquero Legacy
Vaqueros, the original cowboys of Spain and Mexico, were working the plains of the American Southwest long before the term "cowboy" caught on. Their cultural impact is vast—branding, roping, herding—but their boots stayed uniquely their own. As American bootmakers found their footing, the cowboy boot started taking shape in a style distinct from its Spanish cousin.
Enter Charles Hyer
Around 1875, Charles Hyer, a Kansas bootmaker, was approached by a cowboy with a new idea. The result? A modified military-style boot featuring a pointed toe, sloped heel, and scalloped shaft. It’s widely considered the first true cowboy boot.
Leave a comment